Fixing methods for LoPro™10 panels
Possible methods of fixing the floor construction in place depend on the construction of the sub-floor and the chosen final floor finish.
Solid screed & concrete floors
Option 1 – free-floated raft
If the sub-floor is perfectly flat with no bumps or hollows, or has been levelled with self-levelling compound, then LoPro™10 panels can be glued along all edges and butted firmly together to form a floating base for the floor finish.
Option 2 – continuous bed of adhesive
Alternatively, the LoPro™10 panels can be laid on a continuous bed of trowel-applied adhesive to provide a movement-free flat surface; this will also take out any minor irregularities in the sub-floor.
Floating floors & suspended timber floors – traditional floorboards or chipboard
Timber floors should be level and stable before laying the LoPro™10 panel. There are several options for fixing the LoPro™10 panel to floating and suspended timber floors:
Free-floated, glued edges – If the sub-floor is very flat with little or no deflection (bounce) across its surface, the LoPro™10 panel can be free-floated over the top. This method is only suitable for engineered hardwood and carpet floor finishes; it is not suitable for tile and stone finishes.
Glued to sub-deck – Fixing the LoPro™10 panel securely is very important when inflexible floor finishes are specified as it reduces the amount of deflection (bounce) in the floor, which, if left, could lead to cracking or displacement of the tiled floor finish. Therefore, when tiled surfaces are specified, LoPro™10 must be glued or screwed to the sub-floor.
Screwed to sub-deck – For extra stability and rigidity the LoPro™10 board can be screwed to the sub-deck. This is the most practical and cost-effective method for tiled/stone floors. If Nu-Heat’s rigid 10mm acoustic fibreboard is used in suspended timber first floors and attic rooms, etc. then the screws can pass through this into the sub-deck.
For detailed information on the options available please contact Nu-Heat.